Alexandria Church visits Israel and Jordan - October 19 - 31, 2010

It's been 10 years since I was last in Israel so it is with great anticipation that I am going back. Terri and I are joining Pastors Greg and Sherry Billberg in hosting a group primarily from First Lutheran Church in Alexandria, Minnesota.

There will be 34 of us on this inspirational tour to the Holy Land. We depart Tuesday, October 19th and will be flying to New York where we board a non-stop flight to Tel Aviv.

Follow our blog as we recount the details of our journey to this fascinating part of the world.

Saturday, October 30, 2010

Nir - Our Excellent Driver

Since our arrival in Tel Aviv last week we have been blessed to have an excellant driver.  His name is Nir (pronounced Near) and he is an Israeli whose parents emigrated from Uruguay in 1962.  In fact, he tells me that is parents met on the boat of immigrants enroute from Uruguay.

Nir lives near the Negev desert with his wife and two children, 11 and 5, with another one due in June. I kidded him because I don't know how he can have a family because he is never home, always on the road traveling with tourists to Israel.

While not  very tall, Nir is very well built with big biceps, forearms and no neck. He looks like he could be in the WWE (World Wrestling Entertainment) or as a linebacker for the NFL. You would feel safe with him in any dark alley, I'm sure.  His main claim to fame is that he is the World Champion Arm Wrestling Champion in 1992.  He won his championship in Geneva, Switzerland and two years later won as European champion at the tournament held in Israel.

I am always amazed at how the drivers maneuver the big, 50 passenger coaches. Nir said that he was a driver first of a small mini-bus and then graduated to a larger coach.  Now for the last 2 years he have been driving the biggest coaches allowed.  His bus is always clean and he washes the floor every day. One evening after visiting Genesis Land where we had walked behind the camels, he made sure he had a wet rag so everyone could wipe off there shoes as they entered the bus.  Smart driver!

Over the years I have enjoyed having many good motorcoach drivers, but Nir is different. He speaks excellent English and is very pleasant and accomodating to all in the group.  Today, for example, we had a free day as we wait to go to the airport this evening.  Nir volunteered to adjust his scheduled day off and take a group back to the Israeli National Museum and drop another group at the old city.  As he dropped us off he said "you have my cell phone number. Call me if you need a ride or anything else."  It is that kind of caring attitude that has endeared him to all the members of the group.

These small things help make touring an enjoyable experience for everyone.

Hallelujah - Back on Line Blogging. Jerusalem - Wed, Oct 27

We checked into our hotel, the Grand Court Hotel in Jerusalem on Tuesday evening.  It has been a struggle ever since as it seems their internet is a bit tempermental.  Finally today, Saturday morning, I am able to get on-line and haven't encountered any major issues with the internet.  Because these postings are a couple of days late, and my memory isn't as good as it used to be, I am going to offer this disclaimer:  the dates and places are only accurate to the best of my recollection.

Where do you start with a city that has thousands of years of history?  Our guide thought it best to take us to an overlook where we could see much of the walled city and the valleys on 3 sides.  In retrospect, this was a great decision because it gave us a much better idea of where we would be walking in the coming days.

And walk we did. Up hill, down hill, across roof tops, through cobblestone and rock streets.  This is a quite tiring trip but I am amazed at how well everyone is doing.  Virtually everyone in the group has been able to handle all of the walking and we haven't had to wait along the way for people to catch up.  That is with the exception of people that have gotten lost in the souvenir shops along the way.

The overlook chosen by our guide was at the house of Caiaphus, outside the old walled city of Jerusalem. Caiaphus was a Jewish high priest and took part in the trial of Jesus.  Under the house of Caiaphus is was is thought to be a jail of sorts and Jesus spent 3 days there.  Today there is a church and monastery built on top and you walk down many flights of stairs into the ancient ruins.

Also located up on this same hill, outside the walls of the old city is the tomb of Soloman. Because this is a holy Jewish site, the men and women of the tour group had to visit it from two separate sides, with men covering their head with a kipa, the small circular cover worn by Jewish men when not wearing hats.  Because this is a tourist destinaton, the kipa I was given was much like a cardboard french fry container and it blew off or slipped off every time I moved my head.  I hope I didn't desecrate the tomb of Solomon.

Since this area of Jerusalem was where the wealthy of the day lived, it is also the purported site of the Upper Room and the last supper.  There is very little archealogical evidence of this and many of the buildings have been rebuilt so it is unlikely that the room we visited was actually the Upper Room of Jesus day.

We now ventured into the old walled city of Jerusalem and climbed up on some roof tops for a view of the 4 different quadrants of the city - the Jewish quarter, the Armenian quarter, the moslem quarter and the Christian area. Obviously these areas developed in the generations after the time of Christ.  From the roof top we got a good view of the Western Wall, which is always shown on the nightly news programs  of today. (More on the significance of the Western Wall in tomorrows blog) 

After going through a security checkpoint we were allowed to go up to the Western Wall.  Again women only on one side and men only on the other.  At the Western Wall the jewish people place prayer requests on a slip of paper and jam them into the cracks between the blocks of stone.  From time to time these prayers are cleaned out of the cracks but not destroyed or burned; they are collected and buried with other holy books.

We left the old city for lunch but returned to walk the Via Delarosa, (the way of the cross) and tour the church of the Holy Sepluchre.  This church is purportedly built over 3 holy sites - Mt. Calvary, the site of the cruxifiction, the annointing rock, where Christ's body was wrapped after being removed from the cross, and the tomb of Jesus.  The church was jammed with pilgrims from throughout the world, with the longest lines in the portion of the church with the purported tomb of Jesus.

Continuing down the Via Delarosa we passed crowds and shops until we arrived at a small, French convent.  During recent renovations of the convent they discovered the street from the time of Christ. This level is much lower than the current Via Delarosa and was identified by some carvings made by the Roman legion that was stationed in Jerusalem at the time of Christ.  The carvings supposedly describe the "King's Game", which they think might have been used as the soldiers cast lots for Christ's cloths.

I should comment a bit about the meals on our trip.  Breakfast and dinner have been included each day. Lunches have been a mix of local buffets, including salads and hot meat - chicken, beef or lamb, or local "fast food" like schwarma (grilled lamb or turkey with vegatables, tucked into pita bread) or fallafel ("meat balls" made from chick peas, fried and then tucked in a pita pocket with vegtables.)  The local food has been great and I doubt that anyone has lost any weight in spite of all our walking.

Friday, October 29, 2010

Not much improvement in internet service

The internet in our Jerusalem hotel has been incredibly slow.  I have tried it a number of times with only limited success.

This post is just to let you know that I am several days behind on my posting but I will be adding more in the coming days, even if I have to complete it after returning home.

Until then,

Shalom

Wednesday, October 27, 2010

Dead Sea and Dead Internet - Tuesday, Oct 26

I am a day late, and probably more than a dollar short.  Last evening I purchased an internet access card from the hotel and hoped to post something on the blog after dinner.  After getting to my room and booting up the netbook I had an almost impossible time logging into the internet with the hotel access codes.  I did get on a couple of times but it was so slow in loading pages that often the network would kick me off line before the next page would load. 

We get used to technology working as it should and it is extremely frustrating when it doesn't.  But then I think about seeing history from the last 5,000 years and think to myself that maybe I should be a little more patient.  This evening I tried another code and it seems to be working like it should so here we go.

After a relaxing evening Monday at the Dead Sea we left Tuesday morning for Masada, the fortress located on a mountain top 1300 feet above the Dead Sea. This fortress was built between 37 - 31 BCE (before current era - what we used to call BC, before Christ) by Herod the Great (see Caesarea blog on day 2.)  It is a fantastic excavation showing amazing technology.  For example, even though it rises 1300 feet above the valley, Masada had a water supply brought from Jerusalem via aqueducts.  Since Jerusalem is higher than Masada, when it rains in Jerusalem the water runs downhill and is gather in aqueducts and delivered  to the mountain where it first fills the ritual baths, the Roman baths and the excess stored in cisterns.

There is a new, short film outlining the history of Masada and then we took a cable car to the top of the mountain. Having visited here 12 years ago I was amazed at the scope of the additional excavations. You now get a good feel of the scope of the community that existed at the time of King Herod.

Of course Masada is most famous because of the 3 year seige which took place here.  In 66 CE (or A.D) the Jews revolted against the Romans at Caesarea.  Then in 68 CE the Romans destroyed Jerusalem and many of the Jews escaped to Masada. An estimated 4000 Roman soldies came to Masada and laid seige for 3 years.  The Jews had 7 years of food and water stored so it took the Romans 3 years to build a ramp up to Masada and they used a battering ram to break down the walls.

Before the Romans could break down the walls the Jews made a decision to choose between certain slavehood to the Romans or to kill themselves.  Since suicide is forbidden under Jewish law, the group of 960 Jews selected 10 of their members to administer the death, very similar to which they would sacrifice an animal, by slicing their throats. The the 10 chosen drew lots to see who would be the last one left to kill himself.  A very gruesome story but a story of the depth of the belief of those who died.

A short drive from Masada is the desert oasis of En Gedi.  Here a fresh water spring flows out of the mountains and forms several water falls and pools.  En Gedi is mentioned several times in the Bible and was a place of refuge for David as he hid in the desert from Saul.  Archeologists say the ruins in the area date from as early as 4000 b.c. and the oasis was once the site of a royal plantation and vineyard.

Our next stop in this history filled day was Qumeran (or Qumran).  This is where between the years of 1947 and 1956 over 1000 scrolls have been discovered.  Qumran was the home of a Jewish sect called the Essenes (pronounced A Seens) who spent their lives studying and copying the books of the Bible.  After the Jewish revolt in Jerusalem in 66 a.d. the Romans came to this area next in 68 a.d. The Essenes hid their scrolls in pottery vessels in the many caves that dot the area. 

Here in 1947 an illiterate Bedouin boy through a rock into a cave and heard it hit a jar rather than the rock.  He found a vessel with a copy of a scroll and took a piece home to show his father.  His father ended up showing it to an archeological authority who identified it was a portion of the book of Isiah.  These scrolls have been the subject of  many auctions and exhibits around the world and now they reside in the Museum of Irsael in Jerusalem.

As we journeyed up the Judean hills away from the Dead Sea we were surprised with a stop that was not on our itinerary.  We visited a place called Genesis Land where we had a dinner under a tent with "Abraham" who told us about his life and journey to this land. We sampled traditional food while sitting on rugs on the floor.  Sitting on the floor is not as easy for me as it was 30 years ago but everyone in the group enjoyed the experience.  There were even a few more brave souls that road the camels back from dinner.

From the Judean hills it was a short drive into Jerusalem.  This is always a very moving experience, especially when the guide puts on the CD of "Jerusalem, Jerusalem."

Another very full but educational day.

Monday, October 25, 2010

The Value of a Good Guide - Monday, Oct 25

I have been so busy writing about all the marvelous sights of our trip that I have neglected writing about one of the greatest parts of the trip. As someone who has traveled all over the world in a variety of styles (independent travel as well as escorted, guided travel)  I can tell you that when in a foreign land a good guide can make or break the trip.

Our group has been blessed with two great guides.  The first, and the one who is with us throughout our days in Israel, is a woman named Pilar.  She is Jewish, originally from Spain, and has been living and guiding in Israel for about 30 years.  She met us on arrival in Tel Aviv and immediately took charge of sheparding us through this trip.

Our guide in Jordan yesterday and this morning was a Jordanian man by the name of Khalid.  He, too, took charge on our arrival in Jordan and made sure everything went as planned.  It was nice to have a change in gender (man vs woman) and religion (Moslem vs Jewish) and nationality (Jordanian vs Israeli.)  Each brought their own personal view to current events and to any possible solution to the Middle East dilemna.  While we haven't solved the situation, it was certainly interesting to hear more than one side of the argument.

As I was saying, having a great guide can make or break a tour.  A good guide knows how to build a cohesive group out of a variety of individuals.  Pilar told us that she likes her groups to "become family" and she does many things to get individuals to be learning and laughing together.  I have experienced great guides all over the world but I would have to say she has been one of the best.

Having an experienced guide can actually save you time and allow you to see more on an escorted trip.  For example, yesterday as we left Israel and proceeded to enter Jordan, Pilar was adamant that we had to be at the border before it opened at 8 a.m.  The same was true today as we returned to Israel.  In both cases our bus was first in line and by the time we had gone through the immigration process there were 5 other buses behind us.  I am sure we saved at least an hour each day just by being at the given location at the best time.

The same was true about visiting some of the popular Christian sites.  Pilar scheduled our visits to avoid the crowds at certain locations, flipping some of the visits so that we could enjoy the site in relative privacy.

Guides in many countries are licensed by the government. This is true in Israel and in Jordan, and the guides are very knowledgable about the history of all of the things we are seeing.  Traveling on an escorted tour is like taking a college class, without a term paper or final exam.  In addition to their lecture the guides are there to answer questions or give information to make the trip truly fulfilling.  This is especially important is a place like Israel where so much is based on historical events.

Pilar is especially well read and knowledgable about the Bible.  She can quote scripture, chapter and verse about what happened at a certain site and how it relates to other Biblical events.  Khalid was also very knowledgable, especially on Muslim events and gave us a great overview of the history of Islam and how it related to events in the Bible.  While I am not a scholar and can't attest to the veracity of what he told us, he was certainly engaging and I think everyone enjoyed learning from him.  Since much of his lecture was given as we were driving through a barren desert, it was, at least, a diversion.

The tour director (or guide) does much more than just talk about history. They are there to take care of all details at the hotel, arranging wake-up calls, meal reservations in the restaurant, and coordinating the day's activities with the bus driver.  There also, we have been blessed with great drivers who are there to make sure our luggage is all loaded and we are delivered safely to the activities of the day.

This morning we left Petra about 7 am with fog in the valley and the mountain tops poking through the fog. Our hotel was located on top of the mountains and the road followed the ridgeline for the first hour, providing many great views.  This desert climate provided a cool breeze this morning which was a welcome relief from the hot weather of the last few days.

We re-entered Israel at Eilat, which lies at the very southern tip of Israel on the Red Sea. This is a big resort area and a refreshing change from some of the underdeveloped areas of Jordan.  We were impressed that things once again seemed relatively clean and orderly back in Israel.

We traveled a few miles north into the Negev desert. This area is where Moses and the Israelites wandered for 40 years before entering Israel from the north.  We visited an exhibit which had a replica of the tabernacle which was built by the Israelites according to plans given by God. It was interesting to see someone's depiction of what is described in the Bible.

After a stop in the desert to see some ancient Egyptian ruins, and climbing through some geologic formations, we continued on to a kibbutz for lunch.  Once again Pilar had timed our arrival so that we arrived for lunch when no other groups were there. By the time we left there were several more buses in the parking lot and lines in the restaurant.

Our afternoon drive took us further north to the Dead Sea. Here giant pools of evaporating water are used to extract minerals and salt. We arrived at our hotel in mid-afternoon for a relaxing soak in the Dead Sea.  With a salt content of about 35% (as compared to 3%  in sea water) it is impossible to sink. In fact, your body floats like a cork.  You have to be careful about getting water in your eyes and the salt stings any cut you may have, even if you didn't know you had one.  We spent about 30 minutes in the Dead Sea before showering and walking back to the hotel pool, where we could enjoy dipping one's head in the fresh, clear water.

Sunday, October 24, 2010

Journey into Jordan - Sunday, October 24

This morning we traveled south from the Sea of Galilee and crossed the border into Jordan.  It is amazing how in third-world countries they can make such a big production out of processing paperwork.  The first step was to pay a departure tax in Israel, then stand in another line to have your passport checked and stamped by the Israeli authorities. Then we proceed to walk through a duty free shop and down another block where we unloaded our Israeli bus (which isn't allowed to travel into Jordan) and wait for another bus to drive us the 3 blocks across the boarder (that cost another $1.50 per person.)

Once at the Jordan border we unloaded the bus and waited for our visas into Jordan to be processed. Then we stood in another line to have our passports stamped, our picture taken and a thumb print recorded by computer.  Then it was outside to pick up our luggage, drag it through an xray inspection station and then walk another block to board our Jordanian tour bus.  Oh, I forgot that there were porters in Jordan to load our luggage and that cost me another $10 in tips for the group.  Good grief - 90 minutes for this simple crossing.  I suppose traveling into Canada by car can sometimes take as long but it certainly makes you appreciate your freedom to travel from one state to another with little interuption.

In Jordan we met our new Jordanian guide, Khalid.  He helped us with the border crossing and soon we were on our way toward Amman, the capital of Jordan.  Along the Jordanian border the small villages are involved primarily in agriculture but are definitely much poorer than the cities across the border in Israel.  Narrow roads ran through these villages lined with local shops selling everything necessary for their rather meager life. We saw one butcher shop with a skinned goat hanging from a hook outside the shop.

As we climbed the valley the landscape became more arid until we reached the desert on the top of the mountains.  Jordan is 85% desert and there was nothing, no grass or trees, for mile upon mile.  Water is in very short supply and our guide told us that each person in Jordan is allocated 8 liters of water per day; this includes water for showering, washing dishes, flushing toilets. Obviously water conservation is critical for the country to even exist.

Approaching Amman from the west, the suburbs became much more western appearing. Larger houses, modern cars and freeways were commonplace.  Jordan has about 6 million citizens and 2 million live in Amman, where the major universities and medical facilities are located.  Jordan has a well-educated populace with English being taught to all children 6 years old and up.  Many other countries in the middle east send their students to the Jordanian universities.

When we left Amman we traveled south on the King's Highway with runs through the desert before reaching Petra. There is very little along this highway except for an occasional village.  Jordan was originally the home of nomadic Bedouin tribes that herd goats and sheep throughout the desert. They have gradually settled in villages and are supported by holding government jobs or serving in the army.  By settling in villages they now have access to schools and medical care, things not possible with a nomadic lifestyle.

Petra is located about half way between Amman and the Red Sea.  It was an important city on the trading routes between Saudi Arabia and the rest of the middle east. As such, its merchants became wealthy and they had an extraordinary civilization dating from about 300 bc - 200 a.d.  With Petra as there capital, they displayed their wealth with fabulous facades carved into the limestone walls of the wadi.

A wadi is a gulch that is carved by the forces of nature, wind and water, in the sandstone cliffs.  The narrow streets wind their way through the city, with the local inhabitants living in carved cliff dwellings. The city of Petra was eventually abandoned and lost to the world except the local Bedouin tribesman.  In 1812 it was rediscovered by a Swiss explorer, Johan Burckhardt, who learned of it from the Bedouin.

Petra, which means "rock", was recently voted one of the seven wonders of the modern world and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.  This protects it from overdevelopment and strictly regulates what is done in terms of restoration.  Today it is visited by about 5,000 people a day, making Petra one of the wealthiest cities in Jordan. There are many hotels and other tourist amenities in the area.

The walk down from the top of the valley takes about 30 minutes.  You can rent a horse or horse cart but walking is the preferred option.  Our group all walked down the 1.5 miles, and most were able to walk back at the end of the tour. The gulch winds left and right, moving whereever the water would run, and the gradient is rather shallow.  This makes for a relaxing walk, especially if you take the time to look at the different carvings along the way.

Near the bottom of the city lies what is called the Treasury.  It is actually a memorial to one of the Nabataen kings and several tombs have been found in front of the facade. It was called "The Treasury of the Pharoahs" by the Bedouins who believed the Egyptian royalty had created the city and stored gold in the carved urn at the top of the facade.  The facade is riddled with bullet holes where the Bedouins tried to break open the urn, which is actually solid, by shooting at it with rifles.

In front of the facade were a couple of camel jockeys offering rides on the camels for $7 per person.  They are masters of salesmanship with lingo in many different languages, extolling the virtures of riding a camel. For example, they would call them Bedouin Ferraris (or many other luxury car names)  They know how to not to make change.  For example, one woman gave the driver $10 and he said he didn't have change so another member of the group offered to go.  Then he said that instead of $7 each they could do it for "two for $15"  Modern Bedouin math!

We visited late in the day so the sandstone was illuminated by the low light of the setting sun. Luckily is was not a hot day because there is not much wind down in these rock formations.  Our hike back up was completed just as the sun was setting so the valley became rather dark, but we made it back to the bus without any casualities.

Well, they have turned off the lights in the lobby of the hotel, the only place I could get internet access, so I guess that signals the end of today's blog.  More tomorrow as we re-enter Israel at Eilat on the Red Sea.

Saturday, October 23, 2010

Christian Sites of Galilee - Saturday, October 23

The Jewish sabbath begins at sundown on Friday and lasts until sundown on Saturday. Because today (Saturday) was the sabbath and many things are closed, we spent the day touring Christian sites around the Sea of Galilee.

First off this morning was a trip to the top of Mt. Arbel, which overlooks Tiberius and Migdal (formerly called Magdal).  The bus took is near the top of the mountain and then we hiked the remaining quarter mile to the top.  At one point there was a city on the top of this mountain and also homes built into the caves in the hillside.  As you can see from the pictures, the view of the valley is spectacular, with the Sea of Galilee off to the east.

Returning to lake level we travelled to area along the the sea where Jesus performed the miracle of the 5 loaves and 2 fishes, and where he preached the Beatitudes in a natural amphitheatre along the lake front. These two holy sites are now administered by the Fransicans (since the time of Turkish rule 100 years ago) and there are churches and gardens built on both sites.  To me, they seemed more like tourist stops than did the road to Nazareth which we saw yesterday.  Yet we know that Jesus was in this area and that millions of pilgrims visit the area each year.

Next we visited Capernaum, which is where Jesus spent a substantial amount of time during his ministry.  At Capernaum is an ancient synagogue dating from the 3rd or 4th century, but it is built over the synagogue where Jesus preached. Also in Capernaum is the house of St. Peter's mother-in-law where Jesus probably stayed.  This site has a church built around it which dates from the 3rd or 4th century.  The church is in ruins but excavations have been carried out by the Franciscans and it is quite impressive.

Just a few miles away is Bet Saida, the fishing village home of the disciples Peter, Andrew and Phillip. The city, which was once along the Sea of Galilee, is now quite far away. The city has been moved by earthquakes and shifting of the tactonic plates, and the lake has also receded due to these geological changes. It was interesting to see that Bet Saida is being excavated by a team of mid-western colleges including University of Nebraska-Omaha, Wartburg College (in Iowa) and Truman State (in Missouri - where my nieces went to college)

Lunch today was at a kibbutz on the shore of the Sea of Galilee. Fish was the special of the day, but I saw it wink at me  (the head and eyes were still on it) for we had the vegtable soup and salads. The fresh vegtables, especially cucumbers and tomatoes are terrific. Terri loves the hummus and flat bread which is served at most meals. The kibbutz has fields of banana trees, all covered by netting to keep out the birds and the bunches of bananas are also covered with blue bags. I assume this is to keep out insects, much like we cover apples with bags while they are still on the tree.

The final stop of the day was at Kinneret, where the Jordan river flows out of the Sea of Galilee. This is where John the Baptist baptized Jesus.  Today the area is run by a kibbutz which has built steps down to the river where many pilgrims are baptized.  We had a short service there and then had the chance to renew our baptism in the river, though I chose just to go wading, not for the "full dip."  It was interesting to have groups from all over the world in this area. We had a group from India join us in singing some hymns and then a group from Russia, I think, also join in signing in their own language.  It was very moving to hear the same hymn in languages from throughout the world.

We returned to the hotel in time to enjoy a beer on the patio before dinner.  Today had been about 100 degrees, so a cold beer was very refreshing.

Friday, October 22, 2010

The Golan Heights and Sea of Galilee - Friday, Oct 22

Today we left our hotel in Tiberius, which is built along the Sea of Galilee and traveled north to the Golan Heights of Israel.  First, a bit about Tiberius. Tiberious was built by King Herod Antipas, the son of Herod the Great, and named for his benefactor, Tiberious, the Roman emporer.  The city is one of the most important cities in Israel but was never the site of anything important in the Bible.

The Sea of Galilee is about 600 feet below sea level and is fed by the Jordan river.  The Jordan river is fed by three springs in the Golan Heights and today we visited two of them.  The city of Dan was the site of King Soloman's kingdom.  Here we visited the archeological dig which showed the ancient Caananite entrance to the city, which features 3 arches over the gate. While a little hard to see in this picture, this gate to the city dates from about 1500 years BC.

Right near the city is a national park and nature reserve. Here is a spring which flows quite rapidly and develops into one of the streams feeding the Jordan river.  This area is very close to Lebanon and at one point prior to the 1967 6 day war, was being threatened for diversion by Israel's neighbors to the north.  Today it is a babbling brook with crystal clear water surrounded by bamboo and other lush vegitation.

Another spring feeding the Jordan is located at Banias.  This area was once known as Caesarea Phillipi and was named by Herod Philip, the other son of King Herod, the brother of Herod Antipas.  About 300 ad Alexander the Great had built 3 temples into the hillside where the local people had worshiped the god "Pan."  The city was then name Panias, but the Moslems that later invaded the area couldn't pronounce the P in Panias and called it Banias.  Caesarea Philippi is mentioned many times in the Bible because its inhabitants were not Jewish and worshiped the god Pan.

The Golan Heights and Mt Hermon tower about 7500 feet above sea level and borders Lebanon and  Syria, two traditional enemies of Israel. Some of the cities in this area were attacked a few years ago by missles fired by Hezbollah in Lebanon. The area is well fortified and we saw some areas where there were mine fields left behind by Syria after the 6 day war in 1967.  I might add that we all felt quite safe, even though we heard machine gun firing in the hills as the Israeli army had maneuvers in the area.

At Banias we also walked along the river until we came to the Road to Damascus (Syria).  It was somewhere along this road that the apostle Paul was struck blind before he began his ministry.

As we traveled back down toward the Sea of Galilee we stopped at Chorazin, which was a town with an ancient synagogue. I should mention that Israel lies on several geological faults and many of the cities were destroyed by earthquakes over the years. It is only in the last 100 years that archeolgists have started picking up and putting the pieces back together.

On our way back to the sea with stopped along a trail which ran into the hillside.  This trail was the road from Nazareth to Magdal (now called Migdal) which was the home of Mary Magdaline. It was very moving to stand on this road knowing that this was the actual road that Jesus walked 2000 years ago as he journeyed from Nazareth to the Sea of Gallilee.

In Migdal we toured a museum where they have a 2000 year old fishing boat. It was discovered a few years ago when the water in the Sea of Galilee receded.  It was buried in mud at the bottom of the lake and it was a long process to bring up the boat. First they encased in in foam, to hold it together while they lifted it from the mud.  Then it was placed in a vat of lake water and fish were introduced to eat the bateria that were in the wood.  Finally, once the bacteria were gone the wood was gradually preserved and introduced to the air.  It was quite a museum.

After leaving the museum we boarded a boat and journeyed out into the Sea of Galilee.  It was a warm afternoon on the lake, maybe about 85 with high humidity and a full moon rising over the mountains to the east.  We cruised for about 30 minutes back to Tiberius where our bus driver met us and took as back to our hotel.

Another fantastic day.

Northern Israel - Thursday, Oct 21

Because I am rebuilding this post after losing it yesterday, I am going to keep it rather short.  There is a lot to tell but I also want to write about today's journey.

We left our hotel at Netanya and traveled a few miles north to the city of Caesarea.  This city was built by King Herod the Great in 19 bc and was built with the help of his Roman benefactors.  The city featured a deep-water port with a breakwater, Roman theatre seating 3000, a hippodrome (site of chariot races) to seat 15,000, Roman baths and a Roman temple.

From a Christian standpoint Caesarea is important because Peter and Paul were both imprisioned there for several years before being shipped off to Rome. It was also the seat of rule for Pontius Pilate, who was the Roman governor after the reign of Herod.

From Caesarea we visited the remains of a Roman aqueduct that brought fresh water from the mountains in the north, traveling over 70 km over a variety of terrain. The engineering was amazing for its day.

Our next stop was Mt. Carmel, which is mentioned a number of times in the bible. It was here that the prophet Elijah challenged the prophets of Baal (idol worshipers) to exhort their god to start a sacrifice on fire. Elijah won, even after soaking his wood in water.  Mt. Carmel is also the site of several New Testament stories.

Mt. Carmel overlooks the Jezreel valley, a very fertile farming region in Israel. Through this valley runs crossroads to all of the middle east and it has been the site of many battles through the millenia.  The city of Megiddo is mentioned in a temple in Luxor, Egypt because it was conquered by the Pharoah in 1500 b.c., the earliest recorded battle in history.

At Megiddo we toured a "Tel" which is an archeological dig covering multiple civilizations.  At Megiddo, the Tel has unearthed 17 different civilizations built one on top of another.  The final civilization died out when the water in an underground spring dried up.  The spring could be accessed from inside the city gates through a tunnel.  Some of the heartier members of the group walked down 100 steps into the tunnel and then proceed to walk through the tunnel to the source of spring and back up another 60 steps.

Because Megiddo has been the site of many battles (all the important armies have been through there, including Alexander the Great, Caesar, Constantine, the moslem armies and the crusaders, just to name a few) it is also the purported site of Armagedon, which is mentioned in Revelations at the place where the final battle to end the world takes place.

Our last stop of the day was Nazareth, home of Joseph and Mary and Jesus.  We toured a replica of a first century a.d. village would have looked like.  There were olive trees, a vineyard, and terraced farm fields, since Nazareth is built on a hillside and is very rocky. This replica village is near the center of town and had never been built on, so the farm existed much as it must have looked like 2000 years ago.

Wow. Looking back, what a full day.  We continued about 20 miles over the hills to Tiberius on the Sea of Galilee, where we will stay for 3 nights.

Whoops - Thursday, Oct 21

Last night I had a catastrophe.  I plugged in my computer and started writing about the events of the day.  We had seen and learned so much on Thursday that it took me a couple of hours to recount the events of the day and condense it to the blog.

When I finally got ready to post The Epistle According to St. Fred my computer locked up.  I tried every possible solution, all to no avail. Disheartened, I turned off the computer and went to bed.

This morning (Friday) I thought maybe I could do another post so I booted up the computer.  All I got was a flashing cursor. I tried it again - same result.  All I could conclude was that there was a spark of static electricity as I plugged in my computer and it must have fried the hard drive.

Dejected, I left this morning with the rest of the group figuring out that I would have to abandon the blog or maybe be able to write something from the hotel business center each night.  While not ideal, at least it would allow me to post something saying that the blog wasn't going to be updated daily.

Tonight we returned to the hotel about 6 pm.  We had a couple of hours to rest before dinner so I thought I would try my computer again.

I couldn't believe it.  It was the first miracle we have encountered in Gallilee!  My computer booted up, gave me more than a cursor and seems to be operating as if nothing had happened.

I'll eventually get to the events of yesterday and today, but for now I want to post this and see if everything is actually working.  If so, I'll get to the update on all the tremendous events of the last couple of days.

Hope you're all enjoying this.  The trip has been great and it's fun to share it with the folks back at home.

Shalom.

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Arrival in Tel Aviv - Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Delta 747 departed about an hour late from JFK. There was a mechanical issue that needed fixing before departure.  It took about 15 minutes to repair and then about 45 minutes to complete the necessary paperwork showing that it had been fixed.
There were 303 people on board the 747 and it was the busiest flight I have ever been on. I think it is part of the middle-eastern culture but people were up and down the aisle all night.  It made for some fitful sleep but I think I still knocked down a couple of hours of sleep in a couple of different stretches.

The flight was 10 hours long but for me it seemed to go fast.  There were 4 movies shown but I spent most of the time reading a new book. Our route took us across the north Atlantic, then across Northern Spain, Sardinia and Italy and then the Greek Islands.  It was daylight as we approached Spain so it was interesting to try and guage our route the rest of the trip.

Skies were clear as we arrived in Tel Aviv and it was 97 degrees.  We had made up some of the time from our late departure and arrived right on schedule.  Arriving in the middle of the day the airport is relatively quiet but the line going through immigration did take about an hour.  As we left the immigration hall we claimed our luggage and met our tour guide for the Israel portion of the trip.

Our guide's name is Pilar and she is from Spain but has lived and worked in Israel for 30 years. She is very knowledgable and well organized.  She wants our group to feel like a big family during our next 10 days with her.  She did admit that she knows nothing about trees or crops;  if you ask her what kind of tree that is she will say "green."  We might have to educate her a bit on some of these things.

This is a very busy time of year for tourism and Pilar had just dropped off another group and rushed to the airport to meet us. We spent some time together with her this evening reviewing our itinerary and making some minor adjustments so that we can see as much as possible during our trip.

Our hotel in Netanya is only about 30 miles from Tel Aviv but it took about 90 minutes to get here.  It seems they have rush hour in all parts of the world. That, coupled with road construction, delayed our arrival a bit and gave us a chance to rest a bit.

The Blue Bay Hotel in Netanya is located right on the Mediterranean sea.  After checking in and getting to our room, Terri and I donned our swimsuits for a quick dip before dinner.  The water was warm, the beach quite sandy and the waves were big.  It was a great way to get some exercise and freshen up after the long, overnight flight.  A hot shower, clean clothes and we were ready for dinner.

At dinner it was obvious we were in the Middle East.  All kinds of vegetables, olives and hummus were on the buffet for dinner. I had some matzah (sp?) ball soup, cucumber salads, roasted peppers and some grilled chicken for dinner.  This will be a very healthy diet for the next two weeks, I'm sure.

The key to beating jet-lag is to stay up as long as possible without taking a nap.  I think I have done pretty well with that, especially since I had two days of blogging to do after dinner.  (Terri is lying in bed as I type and I keep catching her dropping off to sleep.)

So tomorrow the sightseeing begins.  We are going to have an early wake-up call and depart the hotel at 7:45.  With the short day-light this time of year we want to get an early start; we have a full day of history awaiting us.

We're Off - Oct 19, 2010

We left Alexandria about 815 am on Tuesday morning, taking a shuttle to the MSP Airport for our connecting flight to New York's Kennedy Airport.

Traveling with a group presents its own challenges and every group is different.  It is easy to forecast the character of each group within a few short minutes together.  Our group from First Lutheran was all at the church on-time and no one had forgotten their passports or anything else critical for the trip.

Within a few minutes aboard the shuttle they were all engaged in conversation, laughing and getting to know each other. They were all excited about the details of the trip being posted on a blog so that they could share the trip with friends and relatives.

Not having blogged before, I wasn't sure what I was going to write about the first day.  Then it happened. I noticed one of the tour participants had spilled her coffee on the bus seat and was busy wiping it up.  I grabbed a few more paper towels from the driver and I offered to wipe her behind.  Well, not literally - but I did offer to help her dry her slacks.  Just like on Dragnet - the names have been changed to protect the innocent. (but her initials were B.R.!)

We arrived in MSP and met 8 more of the group, including travelers from South Dakota and California.  Check-in was a snap and everyone boarded the flight for an on-time departure to NYC.

It was a beautiful day in NYC so we had great views of the Statue of Liberty and Manhattan as we arrived at JFK.  Since our connecting flight was also on Delta, we didn't have to change terminals at JFK, but it still was a bit of a walk. It felt good to stretch one's legs after sitting for most of the day.

As you walk through the terminal it is obvious that you are in an international city.  People of all races and cultures were sharing the terminal.  We even had 2 people from Boston, relatives of one of the tour members, join our group here.  We were relieved to find them waiting us at the gate.

One of our group members (M.S) had never been to New York before and thought she really need to say that she had "had a Cosmo in NYC" so she and Terri found an establishment just a few steps away from the gate. I told them to be back at the gate at 615 PM.

About 645 the gate agent was announcing "Last Call"  Apparently these bar patrons heard this and misunderstood the announcement, because it was still a while before they showed up for checkin.

Actually, I am just kidding. They did show up on time and all were on board for our trip across the Atlantic.  A good conclusion to day 1 of our Excellent Adventure.